Stocks & Shares

For many people the stock market is a scary place, to be avoided, because of its reputation as a place where you may lose your shirt. This is true, but it’s only dangerous if you treat it like a casino.

Ownership of companies is the best game in town. Over the years the mass of stocks tick upward in value, at a rate of about 10% a year. It’s the most fantastic money-making vehicle ever devised. We buy in as a part-owner in our civilisation, and it’s a civilisation which keeps advancing.

I say “in value”, meaning the underlying worth of these building blocks of our civilisation, but that’s not the same as saying “in price”. The prices wobble about all over the place, as the market prices are determined by the buyers and sellers. In the short term it can be very unstable, and this scares a lot of people off.

This price volatility also attracts gamblers, who see the opportunity for quick wins. We’re not interested in playing that game; we’re here as long-term buyers to take advantage of the slow growth over the years. If we zoom out and look at the longer term, the volatility is no longer visible and we just see the upward curve. 

Using a pound to buy a stock is like putting it onto an escalator. It’ll start to go up.

The growth isn’t just linear. Your pound will eventually double to become two pounds. If you let them continue riding the escalator, when they come out at the next level they’ll be four pounds. And so on. The growth “compounds”.

Let’s break down the jargon and see how this works. “Stock” means owning shares in a company - you become a part-owner, usually with a very small slice. Your company makes a profit, and the owners are entitled to the profits.

The company will either pay profits out to the owners, known as paying a dividend, or they’ll retain it within the business to grow operations. Eventually this should result in the value of the company growing and the share price will go up to reflect the added value. Often a company will use a combination of these two things.

If you as an owner want to take some income from your ownership, you can do it in two ways. You can take your dividends, and you can sell a small number of shares. Equally if you don’t require the income just now, and would prefer to leave the money to grow your ownership, you can reinvest the dividends to buy some more shares, and in the case of those retained profits you just don’t sell any shares and wait for the share price to go up over time.

Whilst you’re still building your wealth toward Financial Independence, you’d do the latter and let all the money ride, so that your wealth grows at the quickest possible rate.

Once retired, you’d take your dividends and sell some stock regularly to give yourself an income.

Index Funds

You most likely don’t want to become an expert spending all of your time studying companies to get the right ones. And you don’t want to put all of your eggs in one basket - after all, some companies fail. So you buy an Index Fund (or to use a longer name, a passive global index tracker fund). Big shout to a guy called John Bogle who invented this and made investing accessible to everyone.

Index funds mean that you own a tiny slice of thousands of companies. If one goes bust, you don’t notice. The index replaces the losers (generally before they actually go bust) with the new rising stars, and from your viewpoint this is all automatic. All you see is that you put £20 in, and at some point in the future this will be worth £100.

The stock market is full of all sorts, and this makes a lot of people wary of getting involved. It’s a place that gets used by startup companies who boom and then often go bust; by people trying to get rich quick and the people who would con them; and by a lot of boring dependable profitable companies and their quiet owners. We want to ignore all of the hoopla associated with short-term trading and trying to get rich quickly, and instead just get the benefits of being on the escalator ride. The index fund does that.

An index fund isn’t immune to all of the problems of the stock market. It’s a reflection of our civilisation, so it has good years and bad, it reacts to wars and disasters, but over the long-term it has ticked upward at a rate of about 10% a year. That makes it a remarkable wealth-building vehicle that we definitely want a piece of. But we must take that long-term view. In the short-term, it may drop 10% or 20% this year, and the media will cry out that the sky is falling. Equally it may rise 30% next year, and of course the media don’t shout this so loudly, because good news doesn’t sell newspapers. We need to be disciplined and keep riding without giving way to panics, remembering that the prices always go back up and deliver us record-breaking wealth if we just wait long enough.

Volatility

If there’s a war in Europe, buyers get all nervous and demand dries up. Prices dip. This often has nothing to do with the continued profitability of the individual stock - it’s just the way that the market acts.

Similarly the market will frequently over-react to news about a company. Their quarterly report says that they only hit 95% of their sales target - and the shares may dip by 20%. Hang on, you say, this is out of proportion. Yes! It’s the craziness of markets.

People go to the market for different reasons. A lot of gamblers go there looking for a quick profit. They’re the ones who over-react to that sales target near-miss. They don’t have any patience - their timeframe is weeks or months, so when they see a short-term wobble they’ll sell up and go prospecting elsewhere. This is very different to someone with an owner’s mentality, who’ll be there for the long-haul, and will see these temporary price dips and treat them as a buying opportunity. “They’re having a sale, let’s load up on the cheap”.

This mixture of behaviours means that we have to endure a roller-coaster ride of prices, even if the companies we own are steady profit-makers. This adds a psychological problem. We are wired to panic. If we see everyone rushing for the exit, we feel compelled to join the crowd, even if logically we know that there is no good reason for it. We must learn to resist this crowd-following behaviour, to not sell out and crystallise a loss, to keep holding long-term as long as our original investing thesis remains sound. Are those companies you bought still a good idea? Has anything fundamental changed? If not, you don’t need to do anything.

The proof of this need for inaction is found in the stats from the investing platforms, who regularly tell us that the most successful investors are the ones who have either died or forgotten about their account. The guy who loses his login details is a pretty successful investor!

An added complication is the media. They have a vested interest in getting clicks, so they need to come up with sensational stories. If you can learn to filter out the media noise, or at least just stick to more conservative sources, you’ll feel less pressure to react and panic.

Time In The Market beats Timing The Market

As an index investor, the best approach is to be a regular and steady buyer, ignoring market events. It’s difficult to time the market accurately, so you are better off not trying. If you hold off investing till the right moment when the price dips, you are likely to miss out on a recovery in prices. You are better off invested. There’s an old saying “time in the market beats timing the market”. While you try to wait for a good moment, the underlying value of the business is ticking upward at a rate around 10% a year.

Once you are retired and are drawing down income from your investments, you face even more of a timing challenge. There will be times when you are a forced seller, to pull out the money you need for your spending. When the market is down, this can be painful. You are pulling a bigger chunk of shares to cover your spending, and if this continues for a long time it can be damaging to your portfolio as there will be fewer shares left to bounce back up when the price recovery comes. This is known as Sequence of Returns Risk, and it’s the main threat to the survival of your portfolio. We’ll talk about this in depth in the article on risk.

An Owner’s Mentality

Once I’ve bought, I’m an owner for the long-term - decades. My profit is coming when the company makes a profit on its operations. Okay I’m only a small part-owner, but I still get my little slice of the profits, and this doesn’t much depend on what the share price does. The market can go haywire all it likes, I still own the same slice of my businesses, and as long as they’re still trading, still making a profit (though perhaps temporarily a bit reduced in bad economic times), then my ownership is still intact. The company’s operations produce cashflows, irrespective of the share price.

If share prices tank to half of what they were, it doesn’t hurt me if I’m not selling.

This mindset is pretty easy to maintain during the accumulation phase. In a downturn, that means fresh shares are on sale at bargain prices, and my monthly contribution gets me more shares than usual. But it’s during retirement that I have more of a problem, as I’ll be looking to pull my income from that shareholding.

It’s still not a massive problem. Part of the profits pop out anyway as dividends. Even if companies retain some of their profit to reinvest, there’s usually a dividend portion, and this is the same in index funds too - there’s generally an annual distribution. You just need to switch to distribution units rather than accumulation units if you want that money to pop out as your passive income rather than being reinvested.

The painful part is selling some shares/units for income, if the dividends don’t cover all of your needs. Reducing your number of shares whilst the share price is down means that you end up selling a bigger number to cover your spending.

Naturally we all tend to exercise a bit of restraint when the market’s down. This is a good approach - it means that skipping that expensive round-the-world trip until the market is a bit better helps defend your portfolio from you deep-dipping into it. This sort of restraint is often all that’s needed in order to weather the storm successfully. It’s known as flexing, and being willing to flex down from 4% to say 3% when things are bad is enough to weather most of the bad scenarios you are likely to meet.

Other assets

Of course, stocks are only one type of asset and some people are strongly sold on alternatives. For me these are all inferior, as they don’t shape up compared to shares either on the profit making potential (I’m thinking bonds and cash deposits here) or not actually being passive (Buy To Let!).

Other assets can be worse still, if they’re not productive and are just a speculation on the price going up. (Think gold, cryptocurrency, artworks.) These things can’t be assigned a value based on what they produce, because they produce nothing. This means that they’re ultimately just a form of gambling.

Having dismissed the alternatives, we need to be realistic about stocks - depsite their great profitability, they comes with risks, and we’ll look at those next.

 

 Continue to Risk

Drawdown

What happens when you retire?

When you retire, you’ll (probably) have two accounts (a SIPP and an ISA) containing investments that you can sell whenever you like to give you money to live on.

With the ISA it’s that simple. Sell some units or shares, withdraw the money, get spending. There may be a settlement period of a day or two between pressing “sell” and being able to withdraw the money into your bank account.

With the SIPP, you have to have reached Pension Access Age. The government are tweaking this but it’s currently around age 58-59, and will probably continue to be ten years prior to your State Pension age.

Currently SIPPs are part of an outdated pensions system which gives the platforms various hoops to jump through. Expect to have to fill in an online questionnaire about your income needs, and to be offered a pension advice interview.

Pension drawdown income is taxable, although you get some nice allowances. The government expects the platform to deduct tax for them, much like an employer deducting PAYE tax from your wages. When you first make a drawdown, this may well have “emergency tax” taken off which you then have to reclaim (what a faff!). Perhaps by the time you reach this point the government will have fixed this clunky system.

The alternative to simply drawing down from your SIPP when you need income is to use some of your savings pot to buy an Annuity. Not many people do this now, even though it used to be the only method. This is because the rates on offer are usually quite a bit worse than you can hope to get by leaving your money invested and drawing down as you go.

Tax free lump sums

Here the system is again very confusing!

In essence, you are allowed to take up to 25% of your pension pot as a taxfree lump sum. You can do this at the start of your retirement in one big lump, you can take repeated smaller lumps, or you can have 25% of each withdrawal taxfree before the rest falls under “income” for income tax purposes.

These two methods are labelled with sets of confusing acronyms which don’t describe what they do very well. (“UFPLS and FAD”!) If anyone in government is reading this, maybe you could sort it out please?

Almost every bit of pension literature you read will go with the assumption that you’ll withdraw your 25% immediately and go and splurge it on a new motorhome or something similarly stupid. This is pretty unhelpful when you consider that almost all savers are on track to fall short of saving their retirement needs.

If you don’t need the cash now, I’d be tempted to leave it where it is. Either take the 25% taxfree with each withdrawal to pay less tax each year, or perhaps take lump sums each year so that you can put the taxfree lump into your ISA where it can remain invested and growing.

Tax Optimising in Retirement

Pension money counts as “income” and attracts income tax. Boo! Okay, there are some tax breaks - 25% of any drawdown is tax-free, and then you have the tax-free Personal Allowance to use up each year before income tax becomes due. This is currently £12,570. This means that you could draw about £17,000 from your personal pension before paying any income tax. Pretty good. And this system is kind of fair if you consider that you were allowed to defer paying tax on your income back when you earned it and put it into the pension, on the basis that some of it would be taxable later on.

When your State Pensions kicks in, it also helps use up your Personal Allowance. So for the optimisers among us, your goal in retirement will be to burn up your personal pension money as quickly as possible while staying under the income tax wire, shunting what you can into your ISA, before your State Pension comes along and uses up all your allowances.

Then your state pension can fund your basic living while your ISA provides you with more luxury living, without paying any tax. If you needed more income than this, you’d look to your remaining SIPP but mostly on a taxable basis.

This sort of planning is far down the road, and all the governments in between are likely to move the goalposts!

I mentioned above the idea of drawing enough taxfree lump each year to fill your ISA allowance. Some people like to do this in case future governments ever move the goalposts on the taxfree lump sums, thinking that money already in an ISA may be safer from political interference.

If you have saved more than you could get into your tax sheltered accounts and have additional money invested in a GIA, you get some taxfree allowances in there too. I’ll write a separate article about GIA investing which will cover that.

 

 That's the end of my FIRE basics series. Back to home?

 

Goal Setting

Now that you have an understanding of how the system works, you’d need to set yourself some goals and have a plan of how to get there.

The simplest goal would be to reach financial independence, as soon as possible.

You may have other priorities. You probably want to own your own home, you may have kids you want to help through their education and to get started with home ownership, or you may love your work and prefer to divert more of your spending power to enjoying pursuits like travel now whilst you continue working.

Whatever pace you invest at, I’d urge you to do it in a considered manner with deliberate goals in mind. If you want to plan on working till 60 that’s perfectly fine - I’d just like you to decide on it with your eyes open and have a plan for what else you want to do with your resources.

With the home ownership goal, I like to suggest that you think of your wealth holistically. If you put more capital into your home, you are taking it away from the portion which is available to invest productively to give you a passive income.

How long reaching FI takes you will depend on just two things:

· How much you spend

· How much you save

Spending

Your target is “25 x spending”. But how on earth do you know what your retired spending will look like? You’re not going to have the same costs as a younger person paying a mortgage, needing transport to work, with kids at home, paying for childcare, etc.

Instead you are going to have more leisure time on your hands, so does that mean you’ll spend more on hobbies and travel?

Fortunately there is government research on this that we can lean on. They’ve developed the Retirement Living Standards to give people planning their retirement some hard numbers to work with. This sets out three tiers of spending, going from a basic lifestyle up to a comfortable one.

They also give figures for couples versus people living alone, and another set for those living in London.

Currently they think that each person living as a couple (ie the most common situation) needs £11,200 for a minimum lifestyle, £21,550 for a moderate lifestyle, and £29,500 for a comfortable lifestyle.

I like to talk in terms of “per person” because all of the savings allowances are set on a per person basis. It’s what I do - my partner and I run our investments side by side. SIPPs and ISAs are necessarily per person.

You can drill deeper into what those lifestyle tiers mean by looking at the Retirement Living Standards website.

If you choose one of those tiers as your target, that means that you’re trying to build an investments pot of £280,000, £538,750, or £737,500.

(This assumes retiring long before State Pension age. If you are close to getting your State Pension, it would almost cover that bottom tier of living entirely, so you can reduce these figures somewhat.)

This is in stark contrast to the answers people give to the question “how much do I need to retire?”. They usually over-estimate, by a lot. They’ll typically say £1 million, £2 million, or £5 million. That’s because we have very little point of reference - we can’t visualise what life (and thus spending) will be like in any detail, and neither can we visualise what sort of multiple we need in order to fund the spending.

Even building a pot of £300k-£700k looks daunting, but you have help in the form of the power of compounding, and a boost from that free money from the government into your pension. This is why we shouldn’t make things harder for ourselves by not making best use of pensions.

A play with a compound interest calculator tells me that to grow a pot of £500k in 15 years will require you to invest £1,300 per month in a pension. The exact figure depends what growth rate you assume, and it gets a bit more expensive if you’re young enough to need some in a bridge fund, but this gives you an idea of the broad range we’d need to aim for, to get to retirement from a standing start in 15 years.

Remember, that’s for someone planning to spend somewhere in the middle of the top two lifestyle tiers. Your priorities may be different. If you are miserable at work, experiencing burnout, you may find a simpler lifestyle quite appealing. This has attracted the label LeanFIRE.

Some people get partway along to this target and want to downshift to a less stressful job, or to work part-time, to enjoy life more. These approaches are known by some as BaristaFIRE and CoastFIRE.

At the other extreme, some people aim for a rich, high-spending lifestyle in excess of what the RLS find that most retirees do. This is known as FatFIRE.

At the point where you are able to choose between retiring now, or continuing to work hard in order to get a more lavish lifestyle, it becomes a tradeoff between time and money.

Often your health and family situation will be the deciding factors over your decisions on how long to continue working.

Earning Power

Clearly, the other factor is how much money you can spare to invest. This depends on your earning power, and how spendy you are with your earnings.

It would be easy for me to glibly suggest that you crack on and earn more, but in the real world people are usually going as fast as they can already. There is much made of “side hustles”, but the fact is that your earning power is much greater in your field of expertise - your day job.

Probably the easier way to boost your savings rate is to look at your spending. We slip into comfortable habits, and it’s easy to adopt spending habits which aren’t strictly necessary for our happiness. Little tweaks can mean big payoffs.

One way of working up the enthusiasm to get serious at cutting the waste is to look at projections of the results. At this point I’d have a play with fireplanner, changing the savings figures to see when it thinks you could retire in different situations.

 

 Continue to Drawdown

Optimise

Having figured out about platforms, tax-sheltered accounts, and a bit about funds, let’s take a look at how to optimise things to get and keep the most money. 

The lower you can get your costs, the better. We’re embarking on a long-term project where any gains or losses will be magnified over time due to the power of compounding, so any small improvements you can make may really add up. 

After cost, the other factors are products and service. In terms of service, you could say that a cheaper platform like Vanguard is more limited in that they only offer their own funds rather than letting you buy shares in individual companies. This may limit some people, but be fine for others.  

What to look for

At the Platform level, you want to minimise your fees.

If you are in the UK and starting out, then I recommend looking at Vanguard as your platform. They are cheap and simple. It’s the company founded by Jack Bogle, the inventor of the index tracker fund.

If you have more than £100k to invest straight away, or want to be able to buy shares in individual companies, or want to be able to accept employer pension contributions, I’d check out Interactive Investor.

The reason for the above recommendations, apart from their good service, is that their fees work slightly differently. Vanguard charge a platform fee based on the value of your portfolio, ie a small percentage. And this is capped. Interactive Investor, on the other hand, charge a flat monthly fee. Well, II’s fees vary slightly depending on whether you have a SIPP as well as an ISA, and they do offer an introductory plan that’s cheaper. But that’s the essence - when you’re starting out, Vanguard’s percentage fee is cheaper; once your pot gets bigger, Interactive Investor’s flat fee makes them the cheaper choice.

If you want a LISA account, few platforms offer them - probably the best place to look is Hargreaves Lansdown.

For junior accounts, Fidelity currently charge no platform fees to under 18s.

There are other platforms out there, and things don’t stay set in stone, so do run a comparison of fees and the services provided to see which is right for you.

Free platforms

There are also some “free” platform operators, such as Trading 212 and Freetrade. I’m not a fan. Clearly they have costs, and are here to make a profit from you, so where are they making their money? The two possibilities that I can see are 1) hidden costs, such as a wider spread between the buy and sell price of shares and funds, so they make a bit of profit each time you trade. (This would mean they’re incentivised to prompt you into trading frequently - a certain way for you to lose money.) Or 2) the service is a loss-leader, trying to grab market share and then sell their book of business to another operator. This suggests an unstable environment where you can expect to be sold along to someone else shortly. Not great!

Should you run multiple platforms for safety?

There’s nothing to stop you having accounts with a number of platforms, but I see no advantage to doing so, unless you want specific accounts like LISAs which aren’t supported elsewhere. This isn’t like bank accounts, where the government guarantees money on deposit up to a limit of £85,000 per institution. If your platform went bust, they aren’t holding your money - they used it to buy your shares. The shares remain yours. The government would pass your account to another platform to administer, and while it may take some time to sort things out, you ultimately still own your shares.

At the account level, you want to minimise your tax.

This means using pensions, ISAs, etc, to make sure you are keeping your investments free of tax, as much as possible, and that you’re making the best use of the different allowances you get for these.

At the fund level, your priorities are to minimise fees and maximise performance.

This usually means that the best choice is a fund with low fees, 100% invested in global equities, with a wide coverage of companies included in the index.

If you invest in a SIPP, the “free money” we often talk about comes from the government, and it’s meant to be them giving you your income tax back on the money you have put into the pension. This happens automatically with your basic rate tax. About six weeks after your contribution, a further dollop of money (25% of what you contributed) will appear in your account.

If you are a higher rate taxpayer, the extra portion doesn’t come automatically, you have to claim it. You do this either by filling out a self-assessment tax return for the year, or phoning or writing to HMRC to make a claim. 

It’s best to set up an automated monthly contribution into your investment accounts, and all platforms support this, although you can also make additional contributions for any spare money which comes along.

Most platforms will also let you set up automated buying of funds (or shares) with these regular contributions.

My suggestions for funds are as follows:

If using Vanguard’s platform, I suggest their VWRP fund. Their platform fee is 0.15% of your holdings per year, their fund fee is 0.22%, giving a total of 0.37%. (Although Vanguard also have a platform charges cap, so this may work out lower for you.)

This is the “accumulating” version of this fund. That means that any dividends from the constituent companies are rolled up into a higher value for the fund.

You’ll also find “income” or “distribution” versions of funds. These pay out any dividends to you for income. For now, you probably want to be in the Acc versions. (The only exception to this is if you’re investing in a taxable account, where you’d need to pay tax on the dividends, so it is helpful for them to pop out making it easier for you to track them.)

If you’re trying to optimise things, you’ll have slightly conflicting goals. You want as much free money as possible from using pensions, but you also want to ensure that you have money available and not tied up till pension access age, to fund the earlier part of your early retirement.

We refer to this as “bridging” till pension access. The best place to put this bridge fund money is in a stocks & shares ISA. You can get at money in an ISA at any time.

Fees

Fees are a part of the landscape, so don’t expect to ever fully avoid them, though you can try to minimise them.

After fund performance, fees can be the thing which dents your wealth the most.

You’ll come across platform fees, account management fees, trading fees, fund fees, and if you’re unlucky, advice, contribution and withdrawal fees.  Yes that’s seven types of fee.

For the beginner, a platform like Vanguard can work out cheapest because they don’t have any flat fees such as a monthly account fee, they just charge you a small percentage each year of the money you have invested with them. Their annual account fee is currently 0.15%.

As you build more wealth, a flat fee platform such as Interactive Investor will become the cheaper option. Their monthly service plan of for example £11.99 becomes a bargain once you have more money invested.

Once your funds have grown to say £80k it may be worth doing a price comparison again to see which platform works out cheapest for you.

In each case there will also be fund fees, for instance Fidelity Index World Acc is 0.12% per year.

As for the other types of fee, trading fees can mostly be avoided. Vanguard simply don’t have them. Interactive Investor bundle in one free trade per month, plus unlimited “free regular investing” using an automated direct debit and automated buying one day per month, which you can tweak at any time.

The fees for each platform will be available on their websites, so it’s worth having a look and totting up what you would be charged.

Obviously, try to avoid those with advice fees, contribution fees, and withdrawal fees!

Note that in these examples, Vanguard offer both a platform and funds. Confusing, I know!

Transfers

If you have old personal pensions or workplace pensions, they may well have high fees and a poor choice of funds. I suggest comparing these with the alternatives available on the diy platforms. It’s usually simple to transfer these old pensions, which you’d set up from within your new platform. The only difficulty is any “live” work pension, which you need to keep active in order to get the contributions from your employer - never pass up free money. Some will allow “partial transfers” of money to your SIPP, but not many. In those cases just try to switch from the default funds to the best available, in terms of global equity coverage and low fees.

Planning your bridge fund

If you are doing this in your 20s, planning a retirement in say your 30s, pension access age is a distant dream and the heavy lifting will need to be done by your bridge fund. For a retirement at age 40, as little as a sixth of your money should be in pensions.

On the other hand, if your target retirement age is your early 50s, then you’ll only need a few years funding before your pension kicks in.

So in this respect, your bridge fund should be as small as possible, to safely get you through.

If you are unsure of the right split between pensions and ISAs, remember that you can start off and make adjustments later. It will probably be some years before you have too much in any one account. Then there is always the possibility to move some of your ISA savings into your SIPP later on, subject to allowances.  

One thing to bear in mind is that pensioned money becomes inaccessible until you’re pushing 60. (The exact date is another thing the politicians keep tinkering with.) So if you are likely to need this money for any crises or life events before then, consider keeping enough accessible. On the other hand, putting it in your pension is a great way to see your total climb quicker.

You can model this using fireplanner to get a sense of how changes to these choices impact the outcome. It’s not an exact science, but it will certainly give you a broad idea.

State Pension

When optimising, remember that your eventual state pension will be useful. It provides a portion of income that is guaranteed and not subject to the whims of the stock market, and it lasts until the end of your life.

If you are retiring early, consider opting to buy additional years of state pension entitlement through your National Insurance, as it works out good value.

 

Continue to Goal Setting

Risk

While the stock market is our best chance to become financially free, it comes with some baggage. Let’s take a look at the problems and see if there are ways we can ease them.

The essence of the so-called 4% Rule is that you can safely withdraw 4% of your invested funds each year to cover your spending, indefinitely. How did we arrive at that figure, and why is it the best figure to use?

The 4% Rule  originally comes from a piece of research known as the Trinity Study, conducted in 1998 by three professors at Trinity University in Texas. They were trying to determine a Safe Withdrawal Rate for retirement portfolios, and looked at various mixes of stocks and bonds, over various time periods.

Back then there was a widespread assumption that you would enter retirement with a portfolio made up of 60% stocks and 40% bonds, due to bonds not being volatile in market crashes in the same way as stocks, and thus cushioning the fall in a portfolio. Since then bonds have fallen out of fashion somewhat, because we have realised the drag they cause on overall returns, and that in some financial upsets they don’t in fact work as hoped - sometimes they fail to cushion the impact.

By studying past market behaviour, we know that a 4% withdrawal rate for a pure stocks portfolio is fairly safe, but it will be very prone to rises and falls with volatility. This leaves us exposed to something known by the complicated name Sequence Of Returns Risk.

Sequence Risk, for short, means the risk that you get unlucky and encounter a bad market crash during the early years of your retirement. Your portfolio total will be lower, so that when you take out money to cover your spending needs, you have withdrawn at a higher rate than 4%. You’ve made a bigger dent in your portfolio. If this downturn continues for months or years, there will be less in your portfolio to bounce back up once prices recover. You’d have a permanently reduced pot which may then not survive for the rest of your life.

There are a few ways of trying to deal with Sequence Risk. The traditional way was to include some bonds in your portfolio. The downside to this is that they produce less return, even in the good years, and so you’d need a bigger portfolio in the first place - you’d work for longer.

Or you could start your retirement with a cash buffer on top of your portfolio. If you had two years worth of cash to spend at the start, your portfolio would have two years to grow before you made any withdrawals. Normal years have healthy growth well in excess of 4%; your portfolio would be bigger and so when you began making withdrawals they would be lower as a percentage.

Or you could suck it and see. If your first years of retirement are all good years, or even average years, then you’re in much better shape. Your portfolio has grown ahead of your predictions and a downturn should only drag it back to where you began. The danger here is, what if your first years aren’t good years? The solution is to be prepared to reduce some of your spending if there’s a crash. That would keep your effective withdrawal rate down and leave more in the pot to recover when the recovery comes. It’s known as flexible spending, or just Flexing.

This last method is how people really behave during market crashes, so as a strategy it has the advantage of being aligned with human psychology.

My approach is to adopt both the cash buffer and the flexing methods. A third of my planned spending, during the early years of retirement, is earmarked for travel. In the event of a moderate downturn (say up to 10% reduction from the high point) I’ll reduce this spending by half. In a more serious downturn, a dip of more than 10% from the high, I’ll halt this spending.

Using such a Sequence Risk mitigation strategy means I can retire on schedule; the alternative would be to work for longer, probably unnecessarily.

Coming back to the original question of how safe 4% is, there is a handy online tool called FIREcalc. It will let you backtest your retirement plan against historical data from the US stock markets. It uses data from the past 150 years or so, and looks at how your portfolio would have fared if you had retired in any given past year and its subsequent ups and downs. It will give you results both in the form of a very busy chart showing each of those retirement years, and a numerical figure - how many scenarios were successful. By that they mean, did the portfolio stay above zero until you died?

A 100% stocks portfolio over a 30 year period, with a 4% drawdown, would have a success rate of 96.8%.

That’s before you take any measures like drawdown reduction  during a downturn, or using a cash buffer.  And before you factor in your State Pension starting sometime during your retirement, taking pressure off your portfolio to provide an income. These factors should be enough to ensure success, right?

We don’t know. The future may behave differently to the past. We may encounter more extreme events than our forebears did.

This seems unlikely. Governments have, if anything, seemed to become more adept at understanding how the various levers they can apply will impact the economy. We make fewer dumb mistakes now. Hopefully.

The most extreme event of the past is probably the 1929 Wall Street Crash and subsequent Great Depression. A steep fall in stock prices, lasting for a long time. Most crashes are brief fluctuations by comparison. If you’ve played with FIREcalc to any degree, you’ll have noticed how hard it is to move your portfolio from 98% success up to a full 100% success - this is because of these very rare but very extreme events.

We have no guarantees that a portfolio will survive meeting such a deep crash, sustained for such a long time. And I’d argue that it’s probably not worth trying to. Surely it’s not worth working for an extra five years now, to build a fully bullet-proof portfolio, out of fear that you will be unlucky enough to hit a once-in-a-century crash in those early years of your retirement before your portfolio has grown an excess. I’d argue that it is better to mitigate that risk by reducing your spending if the worst happens, or by defending your portfolio from too much withdrawal in some other way, such as taking on some part-time work if a bad crisis hits.

There are plenty of people who argue that 4% is too cautious. They point out that in all probability a withdrawal rate of 5% or 6% will be just fine. Just the same, we all worry about running out of money. Other people plan for a 3.5% withdrawal, to be extra safe. The risk to doing this, and more extreme withdrawal rates such as 2%, is that we sacrifice time. Time when we could be retired and enjoying life more than being at work. The FIRE movement is very focused on having your freedom whilst you are younger and in better health.

The withdrawal rate you choose to target is up to you. Most people agree that 4% is about right. In most cases you will experience further growth in your portfolio despite you drawing from it for income, and over time your withdrawal rate will reduce into totally safe territory.

 

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Measuring Your Wealth

Your current assets (minus your debts) make up your Net Worth.

We’re trying to grow your Net Worth and there are two ways to do this. 1) Feed it from your Earnings. 2) Make it grow itself.

Your earnings could be thought of as a stream of money, and normally almost all of the stream would be used up on the general business of living, with very little of it surviving to become long-term wealth. We’re going to try to divert some of that flow of cash into a fund which can grow.

Then we’ll try to cause the fund to grow by itself too. This means putting as much of it as possible into something which is productive.

If you have a gold ring, it’s a way of storing your wealth, and it may go up a bit in value over time, but it’s not doing much. If, on the other hand, you own a bit of a company, your wealth is invested in a way that produces a regular profit. Then the profit can either be used to grow your net worth some more, or you can eventually decide to take it out to be used to cover your living expenses.

Let’s do some measuring.

Count up the value of all your assets. This can include the money in your bank accounts, your work pension, and the value of your car and your house, if you own it, and anything else that you own - jewellery, artworks, a plot of land, premium bonds, your collection of Star Wars figures, etc. Try to put a value on everything and come up with a total figure.

Then you need to subtract all of your debts. That includes your overdraft and credit card balances, any debt on your car, and the outstanding value of your mortgage.

What’s left over is your net worth.

Next carry out the same process on your ongoing earnings and spending to see what changes happen to your net worth on a monthly basis.

Count up your monthly earnings, and then subtract all of your monthly spending to see how much money you have left at the end of the month. That remainder tells you how much you’ll grow your net worth by each month, as things currently stand.

Most of us experience “lifestyle creep” and our spending grows to keep pace with our earnings. This may mean that you don’t have much gap between your earning and spending, and aren’t really growing your net worth.

Sweat your assets

The basic building block that we’ll use is to get both your Assets and your Earnings to contribute more to your future.

Have another look at your list of assets and figure out what percentage of them is currently Productive.

Your unproductive assets are not going to help grow your net worth. Worse, some of them are not just assets, they are also liabilities. Your car may have a value and so be considered an asset, but it doesn’t earn you any money, and worse still, it comes with overheads. You have to insure and tax it, put fuel in, maintain it and pay for any repairs. Then its value as an asset goes down over time. It had better be important to your lifestyle because it’s a massive drain on your pocket!

Another example of an unproductive asset is jewellery. Some of your jewellery may have sentimental value, which is fine, but others may simply be shiny and get worn occasionally, but otherwise sit in their box doing nothing for much of the time. Could you put this capital to work instead? There may be some things that you are willing to sell, letting you invest the money instead. Then this capital would be producing a cashflow and adding regularly to your net worth.

We call this passive income because the earnings come from your capital doing the work, without you getting out of bed. The beauty of using this is that over time it compounds - the profit goes to work and begins to make additional profit of its own.

The impact of putting the value of any one item to work will be small, but our plan involves doing this lots of times, with both your existing assets and your earned income.

Your spending

It’s easy to do a little investing. Most of us can, in a fit of enthusiasm, set up a direct debit for £100 a month without too much trouble. We can also look at optimising our work pension by switching funds or possibly providers. Then we hit a wall - we’ve made a start but it’s going to be tough to scale things up to a decent speed.

The problem is that most of us quite simply live to our means. We enjoy a lifestyle to match our income, and habits like that are hard to break. We reach this point by sleepwalking from a frugal kid who is used to having little money, up the career ladder with increasing earning power, and never really stop to think about spending priorities. Life gets in the way, with expensive things like cars and houses to pay for, and we’re often pushing ourselves so hard that we spend the remaining money on treats and conveniences. Spending habits develop.

There are two ways to look at cutting your spending. You can be unhappy and look upon it as giving stuff up. Or you can adopt the Mr Money Mustache viewpoint and embrace the frugality, find the positive in a simpler life where you don’t derive your pleasure from spending money.

There is in fact a sound basis for this viewpoint. Research shows that each additional pound you spend on those treats and conveniences tends to bring you less happiness than the pound before. So this may not be so bad after all - we’re only going to be cutting the last spending, the bit which adds the least happiness!

Conduct a little audit of your spending, to see where your money actually goes. I’ve tried to brainstorm a list of possible spends and put them into categories, but I’ve undoubtedly missed some. Fill in values next to all of these which apply to you.

 Home

· Mortgage or rent

· Utilities

· Insurances

· Cleaners / Gardeners / Window cleaners / Services

· Repairs / Redecoration

· Furnishings / Carpets / Beds

 

Transport

· Bus / train fares

· Car loan

· Car insurance, MOT, servicing, repairs, fuel

· Parking fees

· Car washes

 

 Family

· Childcare

· Gifts

· Pocket money

· Schools fees

· After school clubs

· School trips

 

 Food & Drink

· Groceries

· Eating out

· Takeaway food

· Drinks out

· Subscriptions

 

 Other Shopping

· Clothes / Footwear

· Glasses / Contact lenses /

· Makeup / jewellery

 

 Entertainment

· TV Licence

· Streaming subscriptions

· Gaming subscriptions

· Magazines & newspapers

· Mobile phone / other gadgets

· Computer / laptop

· Cinema

· Days out

 

Holidays

· Weekends away / short breaks

· UK holidays

· Foreign holidays

 

Hobbies

· Gambling

 

 Medical

· Dentist

· Optician

· Private healthcare

· Osteopath / Chiropractor / Therapies

 

Debt repayments and interest

Other

Try to list all your spending and put each item under the nearest suitable heading. Use this to get a sense of where your money is going, which categories take up the most money. If it helps, get into your banking app and look through the various payments that go out. Then think about which of the items on the list that you could cut without too much pain. If you’re considering making more severe cuts, try to balance this is looking at the payoff - you could read my article on the 10 year return of a bacon butty for this. Instead of getting a buzz from spending, try to condition yourself to get your buzz from investing and watching your wealth grow.

Obviously the aim of the exercise is to see what money you could free up for your investing goal. You’re trying to grow the gap between your earning and your spending. It’s all about the gap.

 If the resulting sum is low, don’t be disheartened. Not all spending commitments last forever. The pain of your mortgage payment will reduce over the years as inflation has an impact, your wages should go up with inflation, while the amount of your outstanding loan diminishes in real terms. Kids leave home and eventually start paying their own way. These changes will leave you with more money to invest later on. You just don’t have much spare money - yet.

Identifying savings in each category can be hard. Reducing the fuel cost of your commute is definitely a longer term goal; most of us would find it hard to relocate to a job closer to home instantly. The only thing you can really do to slash this is to switch to an EV.

The great news is that by making this effort, you get rewarded twice! As well as investing more, your new frugal ways have reduced your spending. This means that your target spending figure has been reduced by 25 times the savings. Your smaller goal will be a lot quicker to reach.

Measure your Savings Rate before and after this process, to impress yourself with the impact you’ve made. Your Savings Rate is just the percentage of your take home pay that you are saving. If you were at 10%, aim for 20%. If you were at 40%, aim for 50%. Any improvement is useful.

Deploy your resources

Once you’ve got spare money to deploy, where should it go first?

If you’re starting out with very little wealth, first you need some stability. Use your first savings to build yourself an Emergency Fund. This could be £1000 that you keep in a high interest account, or in premium bonds, just somewhere that you can pretty quickly get at it to deal with the problems that life throws up. If your central heating boiler blows up or your car breaks down, you have the money to deal with these problems and it doesn’t derail your finances.

Next I’d set about clearing any debt, starting with the most expensive - the ones with the highest interest rates. The reason for clearing debt before investing is that debt also compounds, in a bad way. If unpaid, the interest on your debt would add to the amount owed, and in turn attract more interest. It’s a downward spiral that we want to halt.

This applies to consumer debt, basically everything except a mortgage. Mortgages are secured against your house and that means they tend to have very low interest rates. You can expect to earn more from investing some money than you would save by using that money to pay off some of your mortgage.

After building an emergency fund and clearing your debt, after celebrating you can finally turn your thoughts to investing.

 

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